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Day 5: Bad Gögging to Regensburg

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A shorter and somewhat less hot day although the eternal truism is that 20km to go feels like 20km to go whether or not you’ve done 40km so far or 80km so far. The Danube is getting more serious about being a proper river now. Once again we were up at 6am, powering through the morning news on our phones and down at breakfast at 7am. The absolutely gigantic  dining room was already stuffed with older guests getting the highest possible money’s worth out of the extensive buffet. It was still a “stamp it out in a factory producing four star breakfasts” fare but on an industrial scale. While Dr T paid our ludicrously small bill for vats of wine and food last night, I descended into the depths of Mordor to retrieve and wash the bikes. Hot, smelly and dank. I felt sorry for our bikes. Back out in the entrance road to the hotel, we loaded the bikes and girded ourselves to get going. Next door to the entrance road is the pool, surrounded by loungers. A...

Day 4: Donauwörth to Bad Gögging

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There was a lot of punishing grinding along gravel tracks in 41C heat today. Some really lovely towns and a lot of peach iced tea. Dusty, baking hot and a long way to go. A dream holiday… The Park Hotel in Donauwörth had air conditioning and a balcony and so while we slept reasonably well, our washed bike kit could dry in the night time heat. Breakfast was once again a “stamp it out of the machine which makes four star German breakfasts” affair. The coffee machine was strangely gated behind the bar and when I asked for my third coffee I received a skeptical raised eyebrow from the waitress. I was probably eating into their profit margin by having surplus coffees beyond the regulation amount. After managing to pack the bikes without getting smeared with the increasingly filthy combination of oil and dust which is caking the drivetrain of the bikes, we set off at 7:50 and we whizzed down the hill that we had so painfully walked up at the end of yesterday. ...

Day 3: Ulm to Donauwörth

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Although some nifty navigation knocked 5km off the route today, it was a hard day with temperatures nearly reaching 40C. The day started early with an excellent breakfast at the Hotel Goldenes Rad. And then we were on the cycle paths along the side of the Danube in the cool morning breezes. This would not last. The Danube has got a lot bigger all of a sudden. Actually, that wasn’t the first thing we did. The first thing we did was pack the bikes and oil the chains and once again, I got a chain tattoo before we’d even started. Nobody wants this as the link photo of the blog… More washing to do at the end of the day. One would think that after over 60 days of doing this, I would learn to stand on the other side of the bike when I’m packing the bean… The paths were beautiful and soon we started seeing these navigation signs. The distance to the mouth of the Danube These only started appearing as the Danube becam...

Day 2: Sigmaringendorf to Ulm

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Another good day although maybe a bit too long.  We were travelling through the land of storks. There were a lot of these giant multi-coloured storks along the way. Another hot night. Although the Beim Rindvert lacked air conditioning or a heated towel rail, it did have a superb breakfast buffet including made to order scrambled eggs and unlimited coffee. Like literally everybody we have met so far in Germany, the hotel owner was charming, friendly and engaging. It was a lovely start to the day. We rolled away from the hotel before 8am to take advantage of the early morning coolness and soon we were back on the EV6 Donauradweg. Early morning mist and the traditional easy gravel. The first 20 or 30 km were very easy. We stopped for further coffee in Reidlingen — a lovely town full of half timbered buildings and a giant stork.   Slightly creepy when they rear above you like this… One sees storks everywhere in the fields and on the ...